CULTURAL |
Those who grew up in Northern Maine in a wilderness setting have always been blessed with a special sense of where they came from in God’s scheme of things.This country is where gigantic full moons hang suspended almost within touching range; where the base of a beautiful rainbow actually does come to rest within surprising reach; where, on crisp, cold, clear nights of fall, the lights of the aurora borealis luminate in grand splendor the northern skies and, at times, spread out in wild abandon as they streak directly overhead in a showy display of gusty gusto on into the southern hemisphere; where loons eerily scream their lonesome cries; and where the blood curdling howls of the coyote, once extinct and now back in Maine, signify their wailing response to the moon on their night time prowls. 
Common are sightings of deer, moose, bear, fox and rabbits, loons, Canada geese and ducks, woodpeckers and partridge, and numerous other birds and small animals. Not so common are sightings of osprey, the bald eagle, the mighty cougar and wolves both of which have made their way back into the state in recent years. (However, the State Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife refuses to officially acknowledge the cougar despite numerous sighting reports.)Several years ago, sweatshirts sold at Coffin’s General Store in Portage Lake facetiously described the town’s location as “100 miles north of Bangor; the third moose to the left.” The Maine Atlas and Gazetteer, Rand McNally’s Atlas, and other road atlases advise a traveler from down or out of state to turn west off Interstate 95 south of Houlton and follow route 212 over to Route 11 north. Route 11 is the scenic route through Northern Maine all the way to where it ends in Fort Kent on the Canadian border. It is also the route that defines the wilderness edge of Aroostook County. And Fort Kent is also where Route 1 ends - or begins! 
Actually, the town of Portage, located on Route 11, is about 145 miles north of Bangor. The scenic setting of the town and surrounding area is provided by several significant factors. It is in the foothills of the northern end of the Appalachian Mountain Range in the vicinity of the Allagash Wilderness Waterway. The lake of Portage is one of the Fish River chain of lakes and rivers. Nine major lakes are interconnected by Fish River. Portage Lake is nestled at the base of two converging hills overlooking the lake. Entry into town, either from the south or the north, over the crest of those hills provides one of the most breathtaking and picturesque views in the state.To the east, north and west of Portage Lake, Canada surrounds the Crown of Maine with the St. John River defining its borders. The town is located at the southwestern outer edge of the scenic, bi-lingual, St. John Valley. Its population includes residents of both French Canadian (Acadian and Quebecan) ancestry and of English, Irish and Scot ancestry. Thus a rich historical and cultural heritage is provided. (See section on Cultural Heritage and Influences.) |
Regardless of the season, Portage is surrounded by spectacular scenery year round. In fall, the landscape is lavishly lit with dramatic red, orange and yellow-leafed trees which fill one with awe. Ignored is that the curtain in the dynamic, by dying, theater of fall is about to come down.
Winter often rushes in well ahead of season and unceremoniously dumps down snow as early as October. A vast expanse of snow-topped ice, several feet thick, eventually coats the lake. Its cold, haughty glamour exhilarates those who love ice fishing, ice skating, cross country skiing, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling which has developed into a thriving industry. Snowmobile trails, leading into and out of Portage, are well groomed and provide access to all major and scenic winter wonderlands in Northern Maine.Winter is also enhanced by the enthusiasm of its residents who gaily adorn their homes with elaborate and extensive Christmas decorations and displays during the holiday season. Sun comes to the rescue in spring and gradually shoves winter away climaxing with the reward of ice out. Some springs, the ice leaves the lake with a rushing, rhythmic rapid flow. And it goes and goes and goes. Other springs, the ice seems to slowly dissolve like ice cubes in a glass of water. Once gone, the newly awakened lake glistens in glad welcome. Mounds and mountains of stubborn snow melt meekly into it from rivers, creeks, brooks and streams. The damp, pregnant ground gives birth to a profusion of grasses and plants. Trees once bleak and bare light up with a grand greening of renewed promise. Birds, animals and insects come to revived life with a feverish frenzy. 
Sweetly fragrant, shy anemones, early spring May flowers, closely hug the earth in their brave venture into the new, snow-free world. Bold, bodacious, velvety-crimson, stinking Benjamins (trillium) come to life in the dank, dark places and defy a need for solar sustenance. Fragile lady slippers, and other delicate wild orchids, demonstrate a startling tenacity for life outside a temperate, tropical climate, and make their presence known where one must search to find them. Early dandelions, with greedy zeal, light up the landscape with their brilliant yellow blossoms. The perfume of early blooming lilac bushes and wild and cultivated fruit trees - apple, plum, cherry - permeate the air. Berry plants and bushes - strawberry, raspberry, blueberry, bunchberry, mulberry, blackberry, cranberry and current - begin to blossom; some profusively and blatantly in their alluring promise of the goodies (such as jams and jellies and pies and shortcakes) that will come from their harvest; while others elusively and raely, and found only in remote, wild places. Cultivated daffodils, tulips and crocuses crop up around homes and add credence to the certainty that, at last, spring is here; oh yes, Thank God, spring is here!In the several snow-free months of late spring and summer, the town is surrounded by a thrilling landscape in fulfillment of spring’s promise. Fields, bordered by evergreen forests that are fronted by sparkling lakes and rivers, glow with an abundance of show-off wild flowers. Lilacs, lupines, buttercups, daisies, dandelion blossoms, devil’s paintbrush, roses, black-eyed susans, tiger lilies, and pearly everlastings compete for the sun and rain in a vigorous dance of color. The thirty-seven acre golf course, located over the top of Hayward Hill north of town, at the Portage Hills Country Club, is situated on rolling, hilly terrain with a panoramic view to the northwest of a far-off mountain range and a glimpse of the upper end of the lake where it converges into Fish River. The club is privately owned and leases land from the town to operate its nine hole golf course. The club building has a snack bar, ample dining facilities, and storage sheds for golf carts. The six-acre public beach on the West Cottage Road, about a half mile from town, is a town-owned recreation facility. With seven to eight picnic tables, some with canopies, fire places , one hundred parking spaces and four hundred feet of fresh water beach frontage, opportunity is provided for picnics, swimming and sun bathing. There is a newly constructed public boat landing situated on the site of the town-owned camping area at the end of the West Cottage and at the head of the lake. In the area of the town’s Municipal Building, there is capacity for fifty daytime users on two acres which offer two outdoor tennis courts, two full basketball courts, and a softball/baseball/soccer field. The building itself has an indoor gym, with basketball court, and is used for a variety of programs and functions. There is also a playground area for the younger children which includes swings, slides, and a set of monkey bars. Another playground for children is located adjacent to the public beach. The Municipal Building houses the town’s administrative functions including space provided for the Town Manager and the Town Clerk. There is adjacent space which houses the 17-person volunteer Fire Department. There is also a volunteer-operated public library in the Municipal Building. A privately-owned indoor archery range, with a set fee charged for usage, is available off Main Street in back of the Custom Taxidermy Shop and Animal Museum. There is also an outdoor archery range on the West Cottage Road. Unscheduled scenic air flights are provided by a private contractor at the town-owned Portage Lake Sea Plane Base. 
Boating, jet-skiing, fishing and swimming are popular activities on the lake during the summer months. Other recreational activities - such as horseback riding, carriage rides, canoeing - are also available during the summer. During winter, the town remains a busy recreational area with ice fishing and snomobiling drawing people to the area. Snowmobile trails ITS 85 and 90 are accessible from the town. They are well groomed by the Portage Lakers Snowmobile Club. Their warmer shed is located at the intersection of ITS 85 and 90. Ice skating for those interested is provided by clearing snow from the frozen lake. Cross country skiing and snowshoeing are also favorite winter sports.Woods roads provide ready access to a wide range of forest adventures of a wilderness nature including hiking, camping, canoe trips, fishing (in streams, brooks and rivers in the surrounding area) and hunting for bear, deer and partridge and other small game when in season. A one-week moose hunting season takes place in early October and is run by a State-operated lottery system. Portage also serves as a gateway into Northern Maine’s privately-owned remote forests. Access is provided to several thousand miles of woods roads over 2.8 million acres of timber land privately owned by lumber companies. The North Maine Woods Inc. is an organization that oversees traffic for the various owners. Fees are charged, at the rate of $4.00 per day ( an option exists for a seasonal pass), for vehicle entry at checkpoint gate buildings at various locations. Commercial sporting camps, offering excellent dining facilities and lodging in a wilderness setting, and private camp owners pay lease fees to the private land owners. Many scenic camp sites and picnic areas are available, on these privately-owned lands where people can tent or park their RVs for extended stays. It is possible to travel these privately-owned woods roads all the way northwest into the Allagash and all the way south to Bangor. Thus for the more adventuresome, even when provided with maps, the possibility exists for getting temporarily lost in the wilderness. Brochures about wilderness facilities and maps to aid in such a wilderness experience are available at the checkpoint gate buildings and also at the North Maine Woods Inc. office in Ashland, ME. The population of the town, according to the 1990 census, was 445. A recent update brings that figure to 460. At one time earlier in this century, when lumber mill operations were at their peak, the town boasted a population of close to 900. Retention of a small population tends to help maintain the charm of a village in a wilderness setting. Since the early 1900s, the town has been somewhat of a resort area. Summer camps, which have considerably increased in number over the years, are scattered around both sides of the lake’s east and west shores. There are a number of residents who live in their lake-side camps year round, and the part-time occupants balloon the town’s population to as many as 1,500 during the summer months. Many of the camp owners are retirees and “snow birds” who enjoy their camp life from May through October after which they head south to warmer climates. A lake association was established in 1989 to review environmental concerns and explore ways and implement methods that can successfully protect and maintain water quality, natural beauty and other vital interest of the lake and surrounding area. The association remains active and productive. Within easy driving distance of Portage are surrounding towns that offer a variety of interests. Ashland, ten miles away, has several restaurants, a motel with dining and dancing, and a logging museum. Lodging and dining facilities are also available in a number of other nearby towns including Presque Isle and Caribou to the east of Portage and Fort Kent to the north. At both local branches of the University of Maine - in Presque Isle and in Ft. Kent - Elderhostel programs are available to senior citizen tourists interested in combining their travels with a university experience. These programs generally include scenic field trips in the respective nearby areas. The program at Ft. Kent often provides a colorful immersion in French Acadian History, Literature and Folk Music. Also of interest in Ft. Kent is a historic blockhouse, constructed in 1840, to which Maine troops were dispatched to guard the area’s thriving lumber interests of that time. The Webster-Ashburton Treaty of 1842, which peaceably settled the boundary dispute involved, established the boundary between Maine and Canada that exists today. |
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